Overview

This was a 6-day kayaking trip, designed for just us two (Rene and Marie-Therese Van Dyk from Australia). It was one of the highlights of our 7 week trip in Peru. The pre-trip organisation undertaken by Margarita's director, Devon and the expedition crew made this trip one of the most rewarding and memorable we have had in nearly 30 years of independent travel through various parts of the globe.

The pre-trip information provided in the print package, plus emails exchanged before the commencement of the trip set the tone for an extremely professional and personalised tour. Equally, we were impressed by the post trip contact and the gift of the t-shirts (a wonderful memory of our kayaking adventure). Airport pickup and assistance in confirming our flight back to Lima was first class. The gentleman who picked us up and returned us to the airport (regrettably I can't recall his name) set the scene for a trip that was extremely professional, well organised and customised. We adored the traditional Amazon boat, the Esperanza. It is a lovely craft, well appointed with the dining area, comfortable sleeping quarters with daily linen changes, clean washing facilities etc.

Price

The total package with the support boat, crew of 5 including an expert English speaking guide/naturalist, accommodation and food, was excellent value compared with prices for either cruises or jungle based lodges.

The Itinerary and Amazon Experience

Devon, in response to suggestions we made, planned a great itinerary that suited our time-frame. Cesar, the guide/naturalist, modified this after meeting us so that it further accorded with our physical capacities and interests. The final itinerary gave us an appreciation of the various dimensions of the Amazon: the different tributaries, wildlife, a perception of village life and the people who live and work in that region.

In quiet kayaks you explore and get very close to the magic, mystery and silence of the jungle - both water and land based. Every day we saw a variety of dolphins, where I loved watching the pink version play and hunt, often fascinatingly close to the kayaks. The kayaks take you tantalisingly close to river banks, where monkeys and a range of birds can be seen. Jungle walks (short or extended to suit your needs) are included. Jungle night explorations land or water-based via a motorised skiff offer yet new discoveries: birds, caiman and other beasties.

Life is definitely not arduous on a kayaking trip. Fishing is offered, where we relaxed, floating in our kayaks, soaking up the sun and watery ambiance, chatting and waiting to catch a fish. Swimming in some lovely, safe jungle settings is another option. Return home and regale your friends with stories of swimming with piranhas - advising them that piranhas have had a bad press in books and films! For those who want additional relaxation, there is always the top deck of the Esperanza to snooze or read.

Travelers we met, who had either taken Amazon cruises or stayed in lodges out of Iquitos, Puerto Maldonado or Manu noted that our kayaking trip was infinitely more rewarding and more interesting than their experiences. They were extremely envious of our wonderful and personalised kayaking venture.

The EXPEDITION CREW

These guys are just great. They work hard to make the jungle/kayaking trip perfect.

Cesar was outstanding as a guide, naturalist and kayaking companion. His knowledge and expertise as a naturalist was truly impressive. Any questions were thoroughly answered and often supported or extended by various books he had brought with him. He also was an entertaining companion and we enjoyed our conversations over the dinner table or as we glided down the waterways. He shared his Amazon-based family background with us and this together with his affinity with the villagers gave us an awareness of social and cultural dimensions. Constantly Cesar followed up and delivered on things we wanted to see or do. Thus, he more than satisfied our desire to explore intriguing, tiny creeks where I felt I was in real exploration mode. Cesar and Segundo worked very hard to find caiman for me. I was delighted when they found and grabbed two to show me. With my fascination with piranhas, they recruited village children to take us to a good fishing spot where I managed to catch a piranha.

Fernando, as captain ensured that all the crew provided us with a first class service. I was impressed that on the first day of kayaking where we had a long paddle upstream, he caught up with us in the skiff to see that I was coping well and whether I needed to rest in the skiff. Admittedly I was exhausted (this was the hardest kayaking day - and I am in my mid 50's), the skiff looked tempting, but I persevered. However, having Fernando quietly chugging behind the kayaks in these latter stages was great in case I needed to get into the skiff to have a rest. Cesar also constantly checked on how well we coped with kayaking and adjusted the pace and also daily trips to ensure that we did not tire, and had fun kayaking.

Apart from his piloting and associated duties, Hernan always ensured that the kayaks were clean and dry at the commencement of each day's kayaking. No risk of a creepy crawly sneaking into the kayak overnight to scare you the next morning with Hernan checking the kayaks. Getting in and out of my kayak was never a problem as Hernan was always there to help - particularly with one pick up from midstream to the Esperanza which was potentially challenging for me. Hernan was a courteous and considerate gentleman and I appreciated his attention to detail and the care he gave us.

Segundo ably assisted Fernando and Hernan with boat-based duties. He functioned as a super assistant to Cesar especially with our night forays and with some of our kayaking ventures. We loved his sunny, exuberant, and fun-loving nature. At the same time, he was hard working and we were impressed that he focused on improving his English language skills to further assist clients.

Danilo is a magical chef and created varied, tasty and beautifully presented meals. Cuisine is one of our interests - where for several years, we wrote a food column for a magazine. Danilo's meals were definitely more outstanding than others we had in Peru although we worked hard at finding good restaurants throughout the rest of country. Apart from Danilo's offerings the only other memorable culinary experiences included a restaurant in Trujillo, one in Arequipo, one in Cusco and another in Ollyantaytambo.

Trip finale

The last morning when we wended our way back to Iquitos, I felt incredibly sad, our wonderful trip was coming to an end - I wanted more Amazon kayaking adventures. It was hard leaving the Esperanza, Cesar, Hernan, Segundo, Danilo and Fernando. However, we had a super farewell meal with Fernando and Cesar. And as an independent traveler, I just thought that I would like to explore the Amazon again with my Esperanza friends.

If you have any questions regarding kayaking with Margarita Tours or traveling in other parts of Peru, email me at mtvandyk "at" lib.monash.edu.au (Note: to reduce spam, there is no hotlink - the "at" should be replaced with "@" when sending an email).

Marie-Therese Van Dyk