I have to give credit to fellow expedition member Stephanie Adams for the bucket/net/puddle line.

Unless the Swedish bikini team could have been included, this trip couldn't have been better! What would one want out of such a trip? A very good variety of cichlids, easily made arrangements, excellent and comfortable accommodations, scenery of one's dreams, the fellowship of knowledgeable "fish-heads", a superb expedition leader and a crew that actually cared about the experience - all at a reasonable price.

Superlatives aside, I'm pretty sure a better cichlid collecting trip doesn't exist. I'm pretty sure that the relative ease with which most collecting sites - and the bounty that rewards collecting efforts would be tough to beat. I'd like to hear of one if it would even come close!

The idea of taking such a trip for me started with George Fear's speaking engagement at the Mid-Atlantic Cichlid Keepers meeting early last fall. As exciting as it all sounded, I wouldn't have followed through if Lou Pochettino hadn't pushed hard to arrange the trip. Lee Harper and I were convinced by Lou of the merits of such a trip - then to quote MACK's subtle president, "Lou almost 'recycled his phosphates' with his unfortunate heart-attack." Lou's bad fortune cost him the experience - but I was impressed that Margarita Tours refunded his money when they were advised of his condition even though the final deposit had been made - and the stated cancellation policy had past. This wasn't the last time I was to be impressed by Margarita Tours.

I was accompanied on this trip by Stephanie Adams, Don Atkinson, Scott Belvin, George Fear, Leon Garden, Barry Heller, Devon Graham, Lee Harper, Dave Leshinsky, Luis Morales.

Those that know me are aware that it was only a couple years ago that I was afflicted with a severe case of Lyme disease - and having been an avid outdoors lover in all aspects, this experience was propelling me along to a sedentary life avoiding anything that resembled such a trip. Luckily, I've got a short memory - and life's pressures and family obligations made such a trip seem out of reach. I'm sure glad I was talked into participating in this adventure.

The Trip

The trip had been planned so many months before - and even though I had gotten every inoculation that was even remotely advisable, purchased guide books and garnered every fact I could find on the web - the day of departure still seemed like something out of science fiction for me. I was actually about to experience the Amazon!

I'd used a very organized list to prepare what I'd need for the trip, including all kinds of things to barter or give to people we'd encounter along the river. Even though the list was organized, the sheer volume of gear I intended to bring was pretty extensive. After cutting back on a few things, I crammed everything I had into one huge (almost 5 feet long) duffel bag - along with a case containing my fishing rod and pieces of the long-handled collecting net I had purchased over the web. My wife pestered me into reducing the weight of my duffle bag (it did seem ALMOST unmanageable) - and so I shifted some of the stuff from the bag to a small suitcase. This turned out to be bad idea when at the counter I was advised I'd have to pay a $50.00 surcharge for having a third piece of luggage. With no alternative, I unhappily paid, but vowed this wouldn't occur on my return.

The Atlanta-Lima leg of the trip took 5 hours. This was not a pleasant flight - primarily because I was seated in a window seat surrounded by a flock of 60 orange-shirted very precocious teen-aged church group members. The elbow of the young man seated next to me seemed to want to probe every part of me since he couldn't stop fidgeting. Up and down goes the seat-tray, out and into the magazine folder (one at a time) go every item numerous times, pull the phone out of the seat-back in front of him, put it back - stand up - sit down - every move popping me. Since verbally challenging him to see if he could sit still for three consecutive seconds didn't work, I decided to elbow him every time he whacked me - thinking it might convince him to alter his behavior and he was visibly shifted once particularly by my countering efforts. He fell asleep shortly after this or I think I might've wound up in a Peruvian jail-cell. Next time I'll think twice before boarding a plane with a bunch of orange shirted teen-agers.

We arrive in Peru at 10:45 pm and breeze through customs. A mad-house throng of people begging us to use their taxi service - (or something) awaited us. A man from the Manhattan hotel at which we had reservations held up signs with our names. Our luggage was scooped up - and we were out of there. The Hotel was pretty nice - and having met another member of the expedition (Scott Belvin) on the bus from the airport, we downed a few cervesas at the bar and then crashed. Lima was as ugly looking as I expected - it was good we wouldn't spend much time there.

We'd been told by a very nice lady at the hotel's front-desk to expect a 6 AM wakeup so we could grab a "continental breakfast" (translation - coffee & biscuit), but a 4:30 AM call informed us our flight would leave at 7am - so we were quickly aloft for Iquitos.

The views from the plane provides glimpses of snow-capped Andes mount-tops and my first pictures of jungle and winding rivers. A very beautiful flight attendant causes me to stop and snap her picture on the way off the plane. The trip is starting to get exciting already!

Iquitos is quite different than anything I've seen. A city of ram-shackle buildings, houses and store-fronts. Some streets are even paved. We again were picked up at the airport and brought to the Amazon Gardens Hotel (Margarita Tours had this act down very well).

We are introduced to Devon Graham who is the tour leader. Devon is a very interesting man, who got his PhD in tropical ecology, has a good sense of humor, and at all times is interested in making the trip one all members will enjoy. Devon was a pleasure at all times - whether one is discussing life in general - listening to or making jokes - or on guided walks through the jungle when he explained many of the intricacies of life along the Amazon. Devon explained the mode of transportation, laid out the facts about what Iquitos has to offer - and accompanies us on our first rip from the hotel into Iquitos and arranged for us to tour one of the tropical fish exporter's facilities.

While walking the streets of Iquitos, one is regularly besieged to buy some trinkets or use someone's services. We spent the weekend prior to the trip and the weekend after the trip in Iquitos, and the persistence of those beseeching you for services could most often be dismissed easily. A little Peruvian kid named Freddie (later found him to be 18 years old), first tried to sell us his "jewelry" - but was pressed into service as a tour guide due to his local knowledge and his excellent command of English.

In order to get about in Iquitos you would stand still for a minute until you were approached by a man on a motor-bike/cart. For two Solis (about 66¢ Amer.) they would take two passengers most places in Iquitos. The streets were very crowded with these noisy motor-bikes, and only a few cars or buses - but the ride was something to be experienced. The breeze felt quite refreshing since it's fairly humid, but it was alarming when hordes of these vehicles converged on intersections. The determination of right-of-way is determined by who-ever was boldest - or was moving quickly enough to shoot between the gaps of vehicles passing in front of you. We'd laugh when we were successful, but it was nervous laughter. Throughout the day we met members of our party but it was normally a group of 4 or 5 of us traveling through Iquitos.

On this first weekend in Iquitos, we all jumped into these motor-bike carts and went to visit a local fish exporter. Devon Graham had arranged for the visit on short-notice - and such a visit sure beat anything else we could envision. Peering into the plastic tubs, we glimpsed many of the fish we'd soon be collecting. It's actually somewhat difficult identifying fish when viewing them from above - but Devon speaking fluent Spanish would either verify his guess with the proprietor - or have the owner provide the name. The proprietor, like all others we encounter was very polite and always made us feel comfortable. On exiting, we spotted a huge moth - 4 or 5 inches TL clinging to the wall that Devon identified as a Lizts's (sp) moth. After we examined it, Devon tickled it and of course it flew directly at me and landed on my shirt. I somewhat anxiously nudged him and the bat sized insect flew across the street.

I'm a habitual early riser, so like most other mornings on the trip I'm the first one up in the morning. On this day 4:30 am - so it gives me time to sit in the courtyard - and attend to my journal as I listen to a rooster crowing every 40 seconds (I counted). As I write my eyes are drawn to the movement of a gecko climbing the wall. The excitement of my sense of anticipation may have contributed to this even earlier than normal rising - since this is the day we will actually be getting on the boat in the Amazon!